Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
