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When compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest place securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary triumph.